To save paper and our enviorment we have listed our Presentation Notes below instead of handing them out on paper...
You’re Guide to Seashore Gardening Power Point Notes
We will try and answer all your questions and concerns, and you can e mail us for follow up questions. So Sit back and enjoy...
Slide 2 .Early History of seashore gardening begins in 18th and early 19th centuries when farming was the occupation of most of the population, with charming villages, the seacoast itself was sparsely settled.
3. Wealth creates a well-to-do middle class. All this began to change in the Victorian era as rapidly growing industry and commerce gave rise to wealthy families and a well-to-do middle class who could afford the luxury of vacation homes.
Since these cottages were inhabited during the summer months, it was natural that more-elaborate gardens began to be planted around them, and seaside gardening greatly increased.
In recent times there has been further expansion of seaside horticulture. Seaside vacation cottages are being converted into retirement homes by people from the city and inland suburbs.
Seashore gardens have some special problems, but it has some important natural advantages as well. The most significant of these is the climatic modification caused by the ocean itself. Oceans operate as a enormous thermostats, and an “oceanic” or coastal climate is temperate , with greatly reduced swings in temperature between winter and summer in contrast to the extremes of a “continental “ or inland climate, which can be scorching hot in the summer and bitter cold in the winter.
This moderation is very kind to plant life, allowing for more genera of plant growth, and making L.I the leading agricultural area in New York State.
4. Vacation homes appear on the seashore. Seaside gardening begins and grows. In recent times seaside vacation cottages are being converted into retirement homes. . In recent times there has been further expansion of seaside horticulture. Seaside vacation cottages are being converted into retirement homes by people from the city and inland suburbs. Since these cottages were inhabited during the summer months, it was natural that more-elaborate gardens began to be planted around them, and seaside gardening greatly increased.
5. Designing stable coastal plantings in this varying environment begins with studying the indigenous ecology of our area. Light, temperature, precipitation, wind, sand, salt spray, and tide. For centuries the pounding of the sea, winds and storms have not eliminated the beach grass, the bayberry, the beach plum, dusty miller, the beach pea and seaside goldenrod which are some of nature’s earliest seaside plantings.
6. Tides are governed by the pull of the moon and the sun. Storms create tidal surges that wreck havoc along coastal plantings in salt marshes the growing zones of salt marsh cord grasses, Spartina patens and Spartina alterniflora, are determined by the amount of time they are inundated with salt water. These areas are generally government protected and not suitable for planting. Container use is recommended.
7. This is an example of an eelgrass bed that has high shoot density, and healthy eelgrass, providing habitat and food for many a high diversity of organisms. Marsh and tidal pool plantings. Beginning of food chain, EEL grass has many benefits for wild life and the environment
8. Salt spray is carried on incoming winds and can burn and or kill plant leaves. If applicable, Pre storm protection with an antidesiccant protective spray, such as the ones used for winter windburn, can help reduce salt damage along with a thorough hosing down with fresh water.
Excess salt buildup in the soil from storms can damage plants and must be flushed down below sensitive root zones with fresh water. Gypsum can be added adjust soil ph as well. Pre storm protection several desert plants include species of prickly pear cactus, Opuntia, and yucca, yucca filamentosa...To deal withExcess salt buildup in the soil. Spray fresh water, check Shallow coastal wells, add Gypsum to adjust soil ph as well.
Designing stable coastal plantings in this varying environment begins with studying the indigenous ecology of our area.
For centuries the pounding of the sea, winds and storms have not eliminated the beach grass, the bayberry, the beach plum, dusty miller, the beach pea and seaside goldenrod which are some of nature’s earliest seaside plantings.
Tides are governed by the pull of the moon and the sun. Storms create tidal surges that wreck havoc along coastal plantings.
In salt marshes the growing zones of salt marsh cord grasses, Spartina patens and Spartina alterniflora, are determined by the amount of time they are inundated with salt water. These areas are not generally government protected and not suitable for planting.
Excess salt buildup in the soil from storms can damage plants and must be flushed down below sensitive root zones with fresh water. Gypsum can be added adjust soil ph as well.
Shallow coastal wells are sometimes contaminated with salt from storm washes, testing the level of salt in your well can prevent increasing salt build up in your soil.
Pre storm protection with an anti desiccant protective spray such as the ones used for winter windburn can help reduce salt damage along with a thorough hosing down with fresh water.
Excess salt buildup in the soil from storms can damage plants and must be flushed down below sensitive root zones with fresh water. Gypsum can be added to adjust soil ph as well.
Shallow coastal wells are sometimes contaminated with salt. Cover with burlap
9. This diagram displays belts of exposure depending on the ecosystem of the L.I. Coastal enviorment. Belt one is seashore conditions, virtually no woody plants could survive there. Belt 1b (one B) is Coastal Sound Bluff ecosystem. Trees, shrubs, Grasses, ground covers, perennials. Belt 2 is Coastal Plain ecosystem, Trees- Sycamore, Maple, Service Berry, hackberry, cockspur Hawthorne, honey locust, red cedar, and Chinese elm.
SHRUBS - chokeberry, black chokeberry, sweet pepper bush, sweet fern, French Hydrangea ,Creeping juniper, Honey suckle, Common Lilac, High bush blueberry..
Grasses groundcovers perennials include Blue Lime Grass, blue fescue, Creeping St. Johns wort, Marshmallow, English lavender, Memorial Rose, cord grass .Belt 3 Barrier Beach Ecosystem, trees- white fir, Norway maple, atlas cedar, red maple, Japanese cedar, white ash, American holly, Crabapple Norway spruce, Scots Pine, Pear, Japanese Pagoda tree. SHRUBS- Barberry, False Cypress, Scotch Broom, Euonymus, Juniper, Spirea, Rosa rugosa. GRASSES - Ornamental - Oats, Switch grass, Fountain Grass, Ribbon Grass. Ground Covers- Heather, Heath, Lirope, Pachysandra, Vinca Minor (myrtle) Perennials-Sea Pink, Butterfly weed, Hosta, Daffodil.
10. Oceans operate as enormous thermostats. Creating an “oceanic” or coastal climate that is temperate. Reducing swings in temperature. This is a contrast to the extremes of a “continental “or inland climate, which can be scorching hot in the summer and bitter cold in the winter. This moderation is very kind to plant life, allowing for more genera of plant growth
Seashore gardens have some special problems, but it has some important natural advantages as well. The most significant of these is the climatic modification caused by the ocean itself. This moderation is very kind to plant life, allowing for more genera of plant growth, and making L.I the leading agricultural area in New York State.
11. Native seashore plants have evolved various mechanisms for repelling or eliminating excess salts. The waxy leaf coating of bayberry, Myrica pensylvanica.
The wooly insulation on the leaves of the dusty miller, Artemisia stelleriana
Look for cultivated plants that share some of these natural defense mechanisms.
Ornamental plants from different environments may find salt deadly.
Keep sensitive plants well away from the shore.
Wind alone can have the same desiccating, or burning effects on plants as salt does.
Winter damage to plant buds is due to desiccating winds- not to low temperatures alone, as commonly thought. First line of defense can be a burlap fence, and spray with antidesiccant sprays. Deciduous plants drop their leaves for winter and avoid some of this stress.
Drying winds come from the Northeast. Summer brings beneficial wind patterns. Common mullein is a monocarpic perennial (i.e., takes two or more years to flower and die). Brought over from Europe by settlers, it was used as a medicinal herb, as a remedy for coughs and diarrhea and a respiratory stimulant for the lungs when smoked. A methanol extract from common mullein has been used as an insecticide for mosquito larvae.
12. Silver Wool on fuzzy leaves helps keep salt droplets away from delicate leaf tissues, many non-shore plants with wooly leaves, such as snow –in-summer, Creastium tomentosum, and species of Artemisia, can adapt to seaside life. Plant cousins-others in the sae genus-provide another good pool of possible adaptive plants. The American holly, has several related “cousins” such as the inkberry, Ilex glabra, make good plant choices for your garden. Sedums and other Alpine plants are cold and drought tolerant and make good choices fro your seaside garden.
A certain amount of trial and error is inevitable in seaside gardening, keeping an eye out for plants doing well in other gardens and asking local nurseries for advice will quickly help you build a collection of successful plants
13. Species of Artemisia, can adapt to seaside life. Silver mound, Full sun zone 3-11. Artemisia schmidtiana. A certain amount of trial and error is inevitable in seaside gardening, keeping an eye out for plants doing well in other gardens and asking local nurseries for advice will quickly help you build a collection of successful plants.
14. For centuries the pounding of the sea, winds and storms have not eliminated the beach grass, the bayberry, the beach plum, dusty miller, the beach pea and seaside goldenrod which are some of nature’s earliest seaside plantings.
Tides are governed by the pull of the moon and the sun.
In salt marshes the growing zones of salt marsh cord grasses, Spartina patens and Spartina alterniflora, are determined by the amount of time they are inundated with salt water.
15. Mats, and containers Invisable structures inc. Natural zeolite preserves water in the soil, retaining it for a long time and supplying plants with it slowly and continuously. The use of natural zeolite stops washing out of fertilizers from the soil restores and increases ability of the soil to exchange nutrients for plants. Natural zeolite prevents diseases of roots of the plants, being a source of microelements and a soil temperature regulator.
16. Shifting and moving in storms, barrier islands absorb much of the shock that would otherwise push farther into the shore. Disturbing plant soil-holding systems can result in an unraveling of the root network causing the erosion or disintegration of the land. Barrier beaches and the dunes behind them provide a more homogenous, though shifting, and environment than the rocky coasts.
Additional native plants form the backbone of these plant communities. One of the loveliest small trees is the beach plum, Prunus maritima, long valued for its white spring blossoms and the delicious fruits borne in late summer. When protected by the dunes from wind and salt spray, other woody plants such as bayberry, pitch pine, red maple, winterberry (ilex verticillata) black cherry (Prunus serotina), Atlantic white cedar (Chamacecyparis thyoides), and American holly (Ilex opaca) can form a maritime forest, such as the Sunken Forest on Fire Island. A key part of establishing a maritime forest mix is adequate supplies of fresh water. The troughs and pockets between dunes serve as a natural catch basin giving a boost to plants that establish there. Designing your garden in this way can reduce the need for long term irrigation systems.
Most existing vegetation in shoreline settings plays a viral role in stabilizing the soil and sand and its removal exposes the land to serious erosion. The best strategy is to replant quickly after site clearing, in an assembly line fashion. On step or sandy sites more vulnerable to wind and water erosion , need extra protection in the form soil-stabilizing mats will help keep the soil in place until new plant roots can tie the soil together. New spray-on binding agents – somewhat like paper-mache have been developed for this purpose. Herbaceous perennials have extensive root growth.
17. First line of defense, beach grass helps maintain precious biodiversity required to sustain ecosystems and the critical environmental services they provide for human populations, spread by rhizome, they should not be walked on, under plantings, erosion control.
18. Blue eyed grass provides the vertical contrast to creeping thyme and cheddar pinks. Dewey Blue panic grass is flanked by North wind switch grass and fronted by aromatic aster. Panic beach grass is dotted by spots of yellow from seaside goldenrod. Northern bayberry, beach panic grass and hyssop-leaved thoroughwort all grow in this sandy dune. This combination of thread leaf bluestar, showy stonecrop and aromatic aster packs a colorful punch in a small space for the fall garden.
20. At the base of these cliffs, or along the rocky beaches found in coves, you can find more salt-tolerant plants such as blue flag (Iris versicolor); sea lavender (Limonium nashii), seaside goldenrod (Solidago sempervirens) beach pea (Lathyrus japonicus) and tuffs of beach grass (Amnophilia breviligulata) make their home.
22. Wind alone can have the same desiccating, or burning effects on plants as salt does.
Winter damage to plant buds is due to desiccating winds- not to low temperatures alone, as commonly thought. Deciduous plants drop their leaves for winter and avoid some of this stress. Drying winds come from the northeast. Summer brings beneficial wind patterns.
23. Natures way of dealing with stressful habitats
24. Several desert plants include species of prickly pear cactus , Opuntia , and yucca, yucca filamentosa Soil amendments such as, compost, organic matter, ,leaf mulch, dried manures, grass clippings are some ways to sustain a natural plant habitat by adding nitrogen to a nutrient area.
26. EASY TO GROW, FRAGRANT, REPEAT BLOOMERS, DROUGHT TOLERANT, PLANT ON EDGE OF SHORE, ROSE HIPS
27. The shallow soils of long island, and the sandy shore line environment, drain off their moisture quickly, causing temporary drought stress for plants between rains-especially in the hot summer months. All new plantings require additional watering for strong establishment, supplemental watering with permanent irrigation system can support a greater range of garden plants. Selecting native seashore plants, using plants with low or flexible water requirements, will help build a drought –resistant and low maintenance landscape. A shallow surface well or, rainwater from a rain barrel can supplement house-hold supplies. Ten inches of melted snow equals one inch of precipitation, and does not become available to plants until a significant thaw opens soil pores. Soil amendments such as, compost, organic matter, leaf mulch, dried manures, grass clippings are some ways to sustain a natural plant habitat.
28. Adding water-absorbing granules, called hydrocells, to the soil with a drip irrigation system can help the soil retain natural moisture longer for plant use.
29. Overhead watering. TIMING IS IMPORTANT. Water can spread disease, early morning or late afternoon timing. Labor intensive!
30. Seashore gardens benefit from the condensation of fog-called fog drip-on plant stems and leaves. A shallow surface well or, rainwater from a rain barrel can supplement house-hold supplies. Ten inches of melted snow equals one inch of precipitation, and does not become available to plants until a significant thaw opens soil pores.
Soil amendments such as, compost, organic matter, leaf mulch, dried manures, grass clippings are some ways to sustain a natural plant habitat.
31. Humidity, gives moisture to the leaves. Rain, fog and overcast days slow down evaporation.
32. Selecting native seashore plants, using plants with low or flexible water requirements, will help build a drought –resistant and low maintenance landscape.
33. Joe pie weed. The shallow soils of long island, and the sandy shore line environment, drain off their moisture quickly, causing temporary drought stress for plants between rains-especially in the hot summer months.
All new plantings require additional watering for strong establishments, supplemental watering with permanent irrigation system can support a greater range of garden plants.
Selecting native seashore plants, using plants with low or flexible water requirements, will help build a drought –resistant and low maintenance landscape. The troughs and pockets between dunes serve as a natural catch basin giving a boost to plants established there. Designing your garden in this way can reduce the need for long term irrigation systems.
34. Having your soil tested will give you the best idea of your soil conditions. New plants and natives will greatly benefit from the addition of nutrients and organic matter to the soil. Good compost will add both nutrients and a water-holding buffer. Commercial fertilizers should be used carefully, in balance with the type of planting. Indigenous coastal sand and soils tend to be acidic and low in nutrients, organic matter, and water holding capacity. The pH, or level of soil acidity/alkalinity, affects the plants ability to absorb and use nutrients and must be seriously taken into account.
Traditionally peat moss has been added to make soil more alkaline. But as peat moss is basically non renewable resource, many gardeners are looking for alternatives, such as oak leaf mold or aluminum sulfate to increase soil acidity.
Which plants do well on your site is a factor of their normal cultural preferences and adaptability to seaside conditions. Native plants found near your site have demonstrated survival power and make a sound structural framework for your seaside garden.
35. Fertilizers available today contain nutrients from chemical or organic sources and therefore give you a choice in selecting garden fertilizers.
Add your fertilizer together with potting mix.
Some potting mixes include time released fertilizer.
Organic matter is a natural time released fertilizer; ozmocote is a chemical time released fertilizer.
Fertilizer (NPK): A 5-10-5 fertilizer contains 5% of nitrogen, 10% of phosphoric acid, and 5% potash.
Most vegetables and flowers, grown in the home garden, grow best in a soil with a pH between 6.2 and 6.5. Usually a 1:2:1 or 1:2:2 fertilizer is best for vegetables and flowers.
Remember to read CCE handouts. Chemical fertilizers leave salt in the soil and on the plant roots that inhibit water absorption by plant roots. Know your pH
Most vegetables and flowers, grown in the home garden, grow best in a soil with a pH between 6.2 and 6.5. Usually a 1:2:1 or 1:2:2 fertilizer is best for vegetables and flowers. Organic fertilizer comes from materials that are essentially carbon in nature. These materials of organic fertilizers can either be plant or animal or the by-products of either. One distinct advantage of organic fertilizers is that they contain organic matter naturally and this is beneficial to plants and the soil. This organic matter in organic fertilizers helps improve the water-holding capacity of soil and also augments its structure, thus increasing its nutrient-holding capacity as well. Another benefit is that it encourages microbial activity which plays a large part in the breakdown of nutrients so plants can use them. Organic fertilizers are also much cheaper and sometimes even free if you know how and where to look. However, organic fertilizers have a few disadvantages. One is that they are harder to apply when compared to inorganic fertilizers, depending on the source material used. Organic fertilizers also have lower nutrient content compared to inorganic fertilizers and this means that more material has to be applied in order to get the same nutrient amount from inorganic fertilizers. Finally, the slow-release property of organic fertilizers can have a detrimental effect on the plants since the nutrients from organic fertilizers might not be released in time for the plants to use in their growth cycle. The best way for a consumer to make an informed decision before buying an inorganic fertilizer is to know the components of a typical inorganic fertilizer first. Micro organisms and temperature make organic fertilizer available to plants. When you add all these numbers, you only get twelve percent worth of nutrients in that inorganic fertilizer, so you might wonder what the other 88% of the inorganic fertilizer bag is made of. The rest of the inorganic fertilizer bag may contain some nutrients and filler material, which helps us apply the inorganic fertilizer over an area evenly.
36. Organic Time Released liquid or solid fertilizer. Artificial Time Released liquid or solid fertilizer Organic matter is a natural time released fertilizer; Ozmocote is an Inorganic time released fertilizer. Use Commercial fertilizer sparingly.
37. Soil amendments help to sustain a natural plant habitat, oak leaf mulch is renewable. Dehydrated barnyard manures, pH, or level of soil acidity/alkalinity affects the plants ability to absorb and use nutrients. Having your soil tested will give you the best idea of your soil conditions. New plants and natives will greatly benefit from the addition of nutrients and organic matter to the soil. Good compost will add both nutrients and a water-holding buffer. Commercial fertilizers should be used carefully, in balance with the type of planting.
The pH, or level of soil acidity/alkalinity, affects the plants ability to absorb and use nutrients and must be seriously taken into account. Traditionally peat moss has been added to make soil more alkaline. But as peat moss is basically non renewable resource, many gardeners are looking for alternatives, such as oak leaf mold or aluminum sulfate to increase soil acidity.
Which plants do well on your site is a factor of their normal cultural preferences and adaptability to seaside conditions. Native plants found near your site have demonstrated survival power and make a sound structural framework for your seaside garden.
38. Perlite is an organic substance that helps retain water in the soil. Vermiculite is derived from volcanic substance and retains water
39. In sandy areas of the coast, planting techniques should be the opposite of those used for wet soils. Stakes hard unstable in sand, use logs buried deep to secure cables to support new plantings and provide decaying organic matter, and bury organic matter in the hole. Back full your hole with native sand and organic matter. Planting on mounds is essential for root establishment. Follow natures lead, whenever a beach plum or other seaside shrub has been uncovered by erosion of the sand dunes the roots of the plant will be found to be enormously long, extending for many yards down into the sand where permanent moisture is to be found. The porous nature of sand, retains water only at considerable distance below the surface also readily permits the penetration of oxygen necessary for the roots for the roots to grow deeply enough to find ample moisture. Often leggy shrubs that would be unacceptable for regular landscaping can be used for sand-dune planting with fine results.
In all plantings in sandy soils, plenty of humus, compost (super phosphorus) should be mixed with the natural sand. It will not last long, but it will encourage root growth by retaining moisture in the root zone.
A major objective when planting trees in a sandy location is to get the root system to spread as widely deeply, and quickly as possible in order to provide storm anchorage. Until a newly planted tree has had a chance to from a large enough root system for good support, staking or cable bracing is essential.
Dune grasses may be used to:
Trap sand at the eroding windward faces of dunes and so help maintain their positions
Reduce the scouring effect of wind in blowouts and at the same time trap sand to help fill them in
Consolidate areas of loose sand including blowout deposition areas, embryo dunes, newly contoured dune faces and zones of accretion along fence lines. Fencing without planting does nothing to stabilize the sand surface.
March is best time to plant dune grass, avoid June, July on the east coast although dune plants tolerate harsh beach conditions, they cannot withstand foot and vehicular traffic. These activities crush plant shoots and roots, Natural barriers.
40. Remove all synthetic root ball coverings. Prune subject to the size of your root ball. Plants go into dormancy and do not get stressed from hot summer weather. Permanent barriers should be wind friendly.
41. At the base of these cliffs, or along the rocky beaches found in coves, such as blue flag (Iris versicolor), sea lavender (Limonium nashii), seaside goldenrod (Solidago sempervirens) beach pea (Lathyrus japonicus) and tuffs of beach grass (Amnophilia breviligulata) make their home. Sea Lavender finds along tidal marsh communities fringing the bays and the rivers. These are basically terrestrial plants, though many tolerate some flooding.
42. A number of low plants such as wine-leaf cinquefoil (potentilla tridentata), mountain cranberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea), crowberry (empetrum nigrum), and American harebell (Campanula rotundifolia) are good choices. More common wild seashore plants that make good landscape plants include low bush blueberry (vaccinium angusrtifolium), bearberry, Bar Harbor juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), bayberry, sweet fern (Comptonia peregrina) and beach rose (Rosa rugosa).
43. A range of native plants, including the low bearberry, Artostaphylos uva-ursi, or high bush blueberry, Vaccinium corymbosum, can tolerate rapid freeze thaw cycles and make a good structural planting for your coastal garden. Stay clear of plants that are marginally heat-or cold hardy in your area.
At the base of these cliffs, or along the rocky beaches found in coves, you can find more salt-tolerant plants such as blue flag (Iris versicolor); sea lavender (Limonium nashii), seaside goldenrod (Solidago sempervirens) beach pea (Lathyrus japonicus) and tuffs of beach grass (Amnophilia breviligulata) make their home.
44. Grayish blue-green, feathery foliage turns silvery plum in winter. Low-growing, spreading shrub with a mature height of 8-12 inches and a mature spread of 6-10'. Very hardy, commonly used as a ground cover. Zone 4-9Bar harbor juniper (Juniperus horizontalis).
45. Bayberry, Myrica pensylvanica (Perennial shrub) has inconspicuous early spring flowers which give rise to a beautiful, fragrant fruit historically referenced as candle berry, since the wax on the fruits is used to scent bayberry candles. The leaves are dark green, deciduous and aromatic when crushed. The winds usually strip the branches of all leaves soon after frost, usually in November. This species is relatively easy to acquire and establish on the landward side of the primary dune.
Shifting and moving in storms, barrier islands absorb much of the shock that would otherwise push farther into the shore. Disturbing plant soil-holding systems can result in an unraveling of the root network causing the erosion or disintegration of the land. Barrier beaches and the dunes behind them provide a more homogenous, though shifting, environment than the rocky coasts.
Additional native plants form the backbone of these plant communities. One of the loveliest small trees is the beach plum, Prunus maritima, long valued for its white spring blossoms and the delicious fruits borne in late summer. When protected by the dunes from wind and salt spray, other woody plants such as bayberry, pitch pine, red maple, winterberry (ilex verticillata) black cherry (Prunus serotina), Atlantic white cedar (Chamacecyparis thyoides), and American holly (Ilex opaca) can form a maritime forest, such as the Sunken Forest on Fire Island.
A key part of establishing a maritime forest mix is adequate supplies of fresh water. The troughs and pockets between dunes serve as a natural catch basin giving a boost to plants establish there. Designing your garden in this way can reduce the need for long term irrigation systems.
Most existing vegetation in shoreline settings plays a viral role in stabilizing the soil and sand and its removal exposes the land to serious erosion. The best strategy is to replant quickly after site clearing, in an assembly line fashion. On step or sandy sites more vulnerable to wind and water erosion , need extra protection in the form soil-stabilizing mats will help keep the soil in place until new plant roots can tie the soil together. New spray-on binding agents – somewhat like paper-mache have been developed for this purpose. Herbaceous perennials have extensive root growth.
48. Quaking aspen, populus tremuloides.white oak quercus alba …tupelo, nyssa sylvatica… Russian olive, elaeagnus, angustifolia
49. The spruce forests of the northeast coast consist largely of salt - tolerant evergreens-white spruce (pica glauca) and pitch pine (Pinus rigida) - along with balsam fir (Abies balsamea), red spruce (Picea rubens), white pine (Pinus strobus), red oak (Quercus rubra), white birch (Betula papyrifera), and red maple (Acer rubrum).Under growth plantings of blueberry and other members of the heath family.
50. Note check conditions for optimum growth, not all plants can be planted on dunes. Description: Red Spruce is best identified by its large broad crown, with right-angled branches, curving upward at the end. The bark and twigs tend to be lighter than Black Spruce. The bark and twigs tend to be lighter than Black Spruce.
51. Hardy, native, drought, sand
52. If you like showier plants than the natives, consider analog plants, or those that share basic preferences and tolerances with the natives and will most likely survive. Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergiana, and Australian black pine, Pinus nigra, are good salt-tolerant substitutes for pitch pine, white eastern red cedar, Juniperus virginiana and northern white cedar, Thuja occidentailsare almost as durable as Atlantic white cedar. Several desert plants include species of prickly pear cactus, Opuntia, and yucca filamentosa.
Silver Wool on fuzzy leaves helps keep salt droplets away from delicate leaf tissues, many non-shore plants with wooly leaves, such as snow –in-summer, Creastium tomentosum, and species of Artemisia, can adapt to seaside life. Plant cousins-others in the sae genus-provide another good pool of possible adaptive plants. The American holly, has several related “cousins” such as the inkberry, Ilex glabra, make good plant choices for your garden. Sedums and other Alpine plants are cold and drought tolerant and make good choices for your seaside garden.
A certain amount of trial and error is inevitable in seaside gardening, keeping an eye out for plants doing well in other gardens and asking local nurseries for advice will quickly help you build a collection of successful plants.
53. Plant cousins-others in the same genus-provide another good pool of possible adaptive plants. The American holly, has several related “cousins” such as the inkberry, Ilex glare, make good plant choices The American holly, has several related “cousins” such as the inkberry, Ilex glabra, make good plant choices. Prefers wet soils. Full sun to moderate shade. Grows to 6-8' x 8-10', with 'Shamrock' reaching only 5'.Hardy to Zones 4-9. Care -Because it's listed as preferring wet soils, I'll be keeping mine watered during periods of drought.
54. Grows 20-40 ft. tall. Rugged, able to withstand extreme cold and drought. Red Cedar is highly aromatic choice for landscaping. Plant 8 ft. apart. Windbreaks protect you and your property from winter winds while adding beauty. Plan for at least 100 ft. between the windbreak and what you want protected, and plant to the north and west of that area. (Southern windbreaks will block the cooling effect of south winds and can make your yard too warm). For best effect, plant a mix of trees and shrubs of varying heights.
55. The fittest are thistles and legumes, deep rooted to search for water and anchor plant, making it hard to transplant/divide. Silver leaves, Artemisia, or fleshy leaves sedum, or fleshy roots daylilies, as protection from drought. Most prefer full sun, good drainage, soil that is neither rich nor moist. These plants seem to bloom longer than the tender inland wood flowers Perennial plant roots provide for good erosion control.
56. Europe, roadside plant, can be invasive forms nice hedge.
57. Legume Oxylobium pulteneae - Wiry Shaggy Pea.legumes nitrogen fixation root system Pea-flowered plants are legumes and belong to family Fabaceae, which is the third largest in the plant kingdom after the orchid and daisy families. Most leguminous plants develop root nodules in association with Rhizobium bacteria and are capable of converting atmospheric nitrogen into more complex nigrogenous compounds. The wattles (Acacia) and the sennas (Senna) and their relatives are also legumes.
58. Oxylobium ilicfolium - Native Holly or Prickly Shaggy-pea has particularly attractive 'holly-shaped' foliage and neat growth habit. This plant is reasonably common on poor soil in small pockets of unmaintained scrub and roadsides. Flowering season is September to November
59. Indigofera australis - Native Indigo is also an often seen roadside plant with showy pink to lilac racemes sprouting from leaf axil. It is a spindly bush to a meter or more in height that sways in the breeze, and flowers from August to September. Legumes
60. Bright Orange Flowers in July to October. Quick Spreading Bulb. Divide and Replant Ever Few Years. 3ft. Sun part shade
61. Zone 4 Height 50cm (18") Spread 1 M (3') This Geranium is rightly named Geranium x oxonianum 'Wargrave Pink', but is usually found as named above. Light chalky pink flowers with a hint of peach bloom from spring through summer. Sun to semi-shade
one 3. Height 60cm. (2') Spread 60cm (2'). The large butterfly-like, showy, white flowers with pale violet veining bloom in late spring over finely cut foliage. Semi shade is best
Yarrow (achillea), crocosmia, erigeron, geranium, gypsophila, obient one 3. Height 60cm. (2') Spread 60cm (2'). The large butterfly-like, showy, white flowers with pale violet veining bloom in late spring over finely cut foliage. Semi-shade is best plant(physostegia),tritonia, stokesia, scabious, asters, kniphofia, campanula, Malva moschata, lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), feverfew (chrysanthemum parthenium), fountain grass (pennisetum), polygonum, calluna, Euphorbia corollata, salvvia, veronica, agapanthus.
63. Gypsophila, obient plant (physostegia) deer resistant How to grow: Phystostegias are easily grown in average garden soil in a sunny location. In hot climates, they appreciate a little shade in the afternoon. They tend to spread aggressively, so if this is a problem, confine them to weatherproof containers or plant something else.
65. feverfew (chrysanthemum parthenium), Calluna vulgaris (Linnaeus) Hull Calluna vulgaris (L.) Hull Erica vulgaris L. Common Heather Heather
66. This is a huge genus that includes such diverse plants as the Poinsettia, Crown-of-thorns, and the Garden Spurges. All have a milky sap in their stems, sometimes irritating to the skin, and inconspicuous flowers surrounded by colorful bracts. All do best in full sun and well-drained soil. Tolerant of drought and, with no serious pest problems, they are easy to grow.
The most spectacular flowering form of Spurge is Euphorbia griffithii ‘Fire glow’ with very large heads of bright red-orange in summer, above leafy green foliage. In fall the foliage turns yellow, red and orange. Very striking.
67. From MN to TX, Euphorbia corollata grows on dry, shaded banks, only to be mowed by highway crews or eaten by hungry wood goats (deer). When brought into the sunlight, it becomes one of the stars of the garden. The small mound of dusty-green, oval foliage looks plain until late June, 'Mainacht' (or 'May Night') is a low-growing, Salvia that comes into bloom in early summer, bearing multiple spikes of deep violet-blue flowers. If you'll keep it deadheaded, it will rebloom throughout the summer. Like most Salvias, 'May Night' wants a sunny, well-drained site. The Agapanthus, blue giant, beauties are best grown in containers and brought indoors during the winter.
68. Lavender prefers lots of sun but will tolerate a limited amount of shade. Well-drained soil is essential, otherwise the foliage will yellow. The soil pH should be close to neutral, or slightly alkaline. (Add lime if your soil pH is more than slightly acid.) This perennial tolerates drought quite well, but water them a bit through really dry periods, preferably not over their foliage. Fertilize sparingly if at all, because these are not particularly hungry plants. Hardy zones 6-9
69. It is often grown as an ornamental plant for its attractive scented flowers, produced for a long period through the summer. Several cultivars have been selected for variation on flower color, including 'Alba' with white flowers, and 'Rosea' with dark pink flowers.[It has been introduced to and become naturalized in several areas with temperate climates. Containers of salvia, yarrow, variegated sedum, and autumn joy
70. July combinations for seaside blue, grays and pinks design tour plantings in rivers and drifts Purple coneflower (echinacea), and lamb’s ear (stachys) with sea holly (eryngium), Tritonia rosea, globe thistle (echinops), and Prairie Mallow. Prairie mallows look a bit wild, and so they are. Gardeners interested in native plants should know that two species, the white-flowered S. candida and mauve-pink S. malviflora (both Zone 5), are native to the western regions of North America.
Sea Holly is a perennial herb that has been referenced in Latin medical and herbal texts that date back to the late 12th century.
71. Rudbeckias, coreopsis, and gaillardia (blanket flower) dwarf, create a daisy like field in the summer sun. Avoid rigid tall perennials except in wind-sheltered locations, for instance choose dwarf delphinium ‘Blue Elf” over taller hybrids.
72. Perennials that can help substitute for part of a lawn stand some foot traffic Snow in summer, dwarf speedwell, woolly yarrow Common Name: wooly yarrow Zone: 3 to 7Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial Family: Asteraceae Missouri Native: No Native Range: None Height: 0.5 to 1 foot Spread: 1 to 1.5 feet Bloom Time: June - August Bloom Color: Yellow Sun: Full sun Water: Dry to medium Maintenance: Low and woolly time.
73. for non walking areas Cinquefoil, lamium, red dragon and green away geraniums, summer-blooming heaths and heathers, daylilies and potentilla.
74. Example rose culture. Hybrid tea roses.
The ordinary garden rose hybrids do not grow well right out on the edge of the sea. But a little farther inland or behind barrier shrubs or tree plantings, sheltered from the extreme impact of coastal storms, can grow nicely.
Gentle sea spray drifting inland acts as a natural fungicide inhibiting the growth of leaf attacking fungi. This improved leaf retention, plus some other factors accounts for the superior color and vigor of roses grown near the coast.
The old-fashion rambler rose ‘Dorothy Perkins’ and ‘Excelsa’, which are mildew and messy looking inland, are pictures of health by the sea.
French hybrid lilacs, many of which are disfigured by mildew on the summer foliage inland, are not troubled at the shore.
75. Example rose culture. Hybrid tea roses.
The ordinary garden rose hybrids do not grow well right out on the edge of the sea. But a little farther inland or behind barrier shrubs or tree plantings, sheltered from the extreme impact of coastal storms, can grow nicely.
Gentle sea spray drifting inland acts as a natural fungicide inhibiting the growth of leaf attacking fungi. This improved leaf retention, plus some other factors accounts for the superior color and vigor of roses grown near the coast.
The old-fashion rambler rose ‘Dorothy Perkins’ and ‘Excelsa’, which are mildew and messy looking inland, are pictures of health by the sea.
French hybrid lilacs, many of which are disfigured by mildew on the summer foliage inland, are not troubled at the shore.
77. French hybrid lilacs, many of which are disfigured by mildew on the summer foliage inland, are not troubled at the shore.
78. Growing Degree Days are used as an early indicator for pest management. Insects, like plants and many other organisms, are dependent on temperature to develop.
These organisms begin developing when the temperature exceeds the lower developmental threshold or base temperature. The rate of development increases as the temperature exceeds the base temperature and decreases as the temperature drops. Each day between March 1 and September 30 the daily GDD are calculated (using the above mentioned formula) and totaled to determine the accumulated GDD (Table 1). If the average temperature is below the base temperature, which would return a negative daily GDD number, just enter zero - 0 - for the day. For the system to work you must collect the maximum and minimum temperature every day. Early in the season the numbers will accumulate slowly but as the average daily temperature increases the GDD will accumulate faster.
Max Temperature + Minimum Temperature minus Base Temperature = Daily GDD
Scout for signs of pest damage or pests, identify the variety of pest as beneficial or undesirable. (CCE handout). Reference treatment of undesirable insects at CCE website.
REMEMBER READ YOUR CCE HANDOUTS
79. Hedgehogs, ducks, chickens, frogs and toads are all predators of snails and slugs. Biological control in the form of a parasitic nematode is commercially available (33). Aluminum sulphate is a granular inorganic salt that works on contact. Aphids have piercing chewing mouthparts which enable them to feed off the sap or life blood of any plant. Aphid Alarm. PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: Small disc, about the size of a Life Saver, which is placed around the stem or branch of any plant you want to protect from aphids. When used before aphids are present, Aphid Alarm will serve you by "scaring" aphids into a defensive posture. When in such a posture, they will many times stop feeding but most importantly, stop reproducing. In general, the alarm serves as a distraction which interrupts aphids from going about their regular business of eating and reproducing. Insecticidal Soap. PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: Non toxic soapy material which can be applied onto any plant. It works by suffocating targeted insects and though is very safe to use, it will not last long. It generally only lasts when wet and once dry will not be active so expect to have to use it several times to get control.
Insects, like plants and many other organisms, are dependent on temperature to develop.
These organisms begin developing when the temperature exceeds the lower developmental threshold or base temperature. The rate of development increases as the temperature exceeds the base temperature and decreases as the temperature drops.
Max Temperature + Minimum Temperature minus Base Temperature = Daily GDD
Scout for signs of pest damage or pests, identify the variety of pest as beneficial or undesirable. (CCE handout).Reference treatment of undesirable insects at CCE website. Aphids are pests to us put food and compost to ants.
REMEMBER READ YOUR CCE HANDOUTS
80. The range of pesticides used to kill slugs and snails are called molluscicides and are commonly sold as pellets. Are molluscicide pellets really the gardener’s friend? Molluscicides not only poison slugs and snails but can also harm domestic animals and wildlife, including hedgehogs and birds, which are natural mollusk predators. Slugs and snails will collect in traps such as under upturned flower pots if left in a shady spot overnight and can be harvested the next morning before the sun is too hot and the shelters become too dry (remember to leave a gap under pots for snails to crawl through)(21). Other traps include wooden boards, upturned empty grapefruit halves and beer. Beer traps are ideally made from plastic pots with tight fitting lids, they should have slots cut into the sides near the rim and buried to the level of the opening. Lids prevent evaporation, beneficial organisms falling into the pot and also larger animals (e.g. the family dog) from drinking the beer. If dead animals are left in the traps they are more attractive to newcomers (22). Slug traps are also commercially available and work on the same principle as beer traps (23). Once collected the most humane way of destroying slugs and snails is by crushing but they can also be dropped into salty water (24).
81. Good guys or bad guys? What would seeing a large quantity of ladybugs make you think to look for?
Aphids?
82. Bees are the main source of pollination in your garden. This is a good reason not to use pesticides.
83. A real problem exists in recommending plants and cultural methods in seashore planting, because seashore soils are anything but uniform. L.I. Soils a result of the gradual uplift of by glaciers, deposited sandy floors on much of the coastline. What will grow in this environment is conditioned by the very sandy, quick draining quality of the soil as well as the effect of the sea itself.
Container gardening is a perfect solution for gardeners to add plants not suited to our sandy soils L.I. Soils a Result of the Gradual Uplift of Glaciers, Deposited Sandy Floors on much of our coastline. To add plants not suited to our sandy soils.
84. These perennials have a bloom time that is short but their foliage remains constant. Hostas and Lady’s mantle Fillers- oxalis, fuchsia Spillers- wishbone flower, million bells, Sweet potato vine
85. Choose the right container for the right location, size durability, cost, and design are fundamental consideration. Seaside Container Plantings Have a Special Appeal to seaside gardens, creating individual ecosystems for a specific ornamental plant
The size of your chosen container will naturally depend partly on the space available. It will also be governed by the plants you intend to grow in them. You will need deep pots to accommodate the roots of large shrubs or small trees whereas many annuals do not require much more than 6 inch depth of soil to grow satisfactorily.
The durability of a container, in other words the length of its useful life, depends to a large extent on the resistance of the container material to the effects of weathering. Extremes of temperatures cause the alternate expansion and contraction of containers and potting mixes can weaken all materials. For example terra-cotta or clay pots are very popular, but are prone to cracking.
Finally cost will probably play a part in your choice of containers. These element needs to be assessed along with the various practical and aesthetic considerations. Try to make a realistic choice to meet your own requirements. Instant gratification: Design Elements: Focal point, height, texture, contrast and cascading. Color: what are your favorite colors?
88. Troughs are made from cement, peat mass and perlite which make them used for succulents and alpine plants. The peat moss in the cement makes it conducive for moss growing allowing it to be used for naturalizing. Create your own shapes and sizes.
90. Sedums and other Alpine plants are cold and drought tolerant and make good choices fro your seaside garden.
A certain amount of trial and error is inevitable in seaside gardening, keeping an eye out for plants doing well in other gardens and asking local nurseries for advice will quickly help you build a collection of successful plants
91. Deadheading and pruning promotes continued flowering and controls the shape of maturing plants.
Types of plant support are cages, stakes, hoops, trellises, monofilament line, wires, rebar arches and other architectural elements.
Over-wintering containers: not all containers need to be buried in the garden. Know your planting zone (zone7 and 6b).
Dahlias (tuberous roots), Tubers (potatoes) Cannas, Corms (glads) should be protected from freezing. (over- wintered)
92. The maintenance requirements of a garden can vary from intensive to minimal
All gardens need that extra boost of care just after planting, including watering, wind protection and protection from invasive weeds while the new plants become adjusted to their site.
Even low-maintenance native plantings, will require human help. Three years is about the average time for plants to mature and then the thinning and pruning and balancing begin.
I like to mulch the container, to prevent weeds, (yes, containers do get weeds) and reduce thawing and heaving during winter months. Types of mulch include, grass clippings, pine bark, cedar, tree, coconut husks, reflective ,recycled rubber, compost, leaf, colored stones and sand..
Remember: initially some mulch will leach nutrients that can slightly change your soil pH, and then return to natural as they decompose.
93. by hand, sprinkler or lawn irrigation. Rain Barrel, Drip irrigation and timers take the guess work out of watering.
Containers evaporate quickly Deep watering is better than multiple short watering. Hydro pellets/crystals. Plant trays allow for wicking. When do plants need water?
94. The maintenance requirements of a garden can vary from intensive to minimal. All gardens need that extra boost of care just after planting, including watering, wind protection and protection from invasive weeds while the new plants become adjusted to their site.
Even low-maintenance native plantings, will require human help. Three years is about the average time for plants to mature and then the thinning and pruning and balancing begin.
I like to mulch the container, to prevent weeds, (yes, containers do get weeds) and reduce thawing and heaving during winter months. Types of mulch include, grass clippings, pine bark, cedar, tree, coconut husks, reflective ,recycled rubber, compost, leaf, colored stones and sand. Remember: initially some mulch will leach nutrients that can slightly change your soil pH, and then return to neutral as they decompose.
95. Reduce weeding, mulch your pot!
These notes are meant as a guide to help you understand your garden. Always consult with a professional before before making changes to your garden...
SPRING GARDENING STUDENT HANDOUT 2009
Master Gardeners
Jay Wolstoff
Loretta Donnelly
Your Guide to Container Gardening:
True or False
All plants can be planted in a container?The bigger the container the better?I can use dirt from my garden to fill my containers?Do I have to change the container soil every season? Drip irrigation can not be used for containers?Container gardens are maintenance free?Container plants must be buried in the ground for the winter months.
Instant gratification. That's one reason more and more gardeners are potting plants for the outdoors. Instead of waiting weeks for your garden to grow, a container can be blooming with color right from the get-go. An empty stage waiting for your direction, a deck, patio, balcony or garden can display beautiful containers with drama. Potted plants and flowers make natural accessories to these outdoor living spaces. In some cases sun is a premium and can only be had by using a container. Growing plants in pots offers great scope and versatility; it can bring you many of the pleasures of a garden even in a restricted space, or poor and unusual landscapes or the difficulties of naturally occurring seaside conditions. Containers can help avoid problem soils, use minimal space, keeps plants close at hand so you can work with them and they can be portable. You need to bear in mind many practical considerations when making your selections and it is equally important to suit the container to the planting in it, for the particular locations (focal point staircase, entry, patios, decks etc.). All pots have their own character, not just inherent in their shape but influenced also by their size, the material of which they were made and the materials texture. The overall style should blend easily with the setting, be it formal or informal, contemporary or traditional, southwestern or seaside.
The sizeof your chosen container will naturally depend partly on the space available, not only floor standing space but also the length and width of a windowsill, for example. It will also be governed by the plants you intend to grow in them. You will need deep pots to accommodate the roots of large shrubs or small trees whereas many annuals do not require much more than 6 inches depth of soil to grow satisfactorily. Small pots should be sturdy enough not get blown over when used outdoors. Large pots and window boxes will need to be planted where they will stay because moving them after will be next to impossible once filled.
Page 1
The durabilityof a container, depends to a large extent on the resistance of the material to the effects of weathering. Extremes of temperatures cause the alternate expansion and contraction of containers and potting mixes can weaken all materials. For example terra-cotta or clay pots are very popular, but are prone to cracking. They can be treated in advance by having the pottery sealed with a liquid latex product that will protect it against such hazards as extreme weather conditions.
Finally cost will probably play a part in your choice of containers. This element needs to be assessed along with the various practical and aesthetic considerations. Try to make a realistic choice to meet your own requirements.
Where do you start? LOCATION-LOCATION-LOCATION!
· Right light for the right plant:
· full sun=eight hours-
· part sun=four to six hours-
· full shade/ no sun,
· Part shade/ filtered sun.
· Read YOUR plant labels carefully.
· It’s what’s inside that counts: I start with a clean container in its permanent location or on a mobile platform for large containers. I make drainage holes in the bottom of the container (more is better) and cover with landscape fabric, or rocks to prevent clogs. If using drip irrigation add drip lines at this time. I like to keep the container off the ground (you can get specially made container feet) which helps drainage and reduces water retention (freezing) and cracking, (container feet can be decorative or you can use anything that you have available). Next, to reduce weight you can add mulch, newspaper, perlite, or small empty inverted pots in the bottom of your container.
· If your plant selection has a large root system (ex. roses) or you are using a lot of plants, you might want to increase the soil in the base of your container.
· If your plant choices are annuals you may want to reduce your total soil by using inverted pot in the bottom of your containers, resulting in lighter containers.
· Next, depending on the plant (read your plant label). I like to use a mixture of potting soil(which contains perlite/vermiculite),compost, coarse builders sand for drainage(not beach sand), and organic matter(dehydrated cow or chicken manure). Remember, organic matter is a natural time released fertilizer. You can also use ozmocote (chemical) as a time released fertilizer.
Page 2
· Make your own potting soil mix, to produce 1 bushel, mix together ½ bushel #2 size vermiculite ½ bushel peat moss 5 tablespoons ground limestone 2 tablespoons super-phosphate 8 tablespoons
5-10-5 or 6-12-6 fertilizer
To produce 2 quarts, mix together 1 qt vermiculite, 1qt peat moss,1/2
½ teaspoon of lime,1/2 teaspoon of 5-10-5 fertilizer.
· My ideal potting soil for my containers would be “soiless” potting soil which drains quickly, is lightweight and free from soil-borne diseases and weeds. Pro mix is one of several soiless mediums that are available at most garden centers.
· Remember there are plants that love sandy and rocky soil with little organic matter, Lavender comes to mind.
· Next I like to mulch the container, to prevent weeds, (yes, containers do get weeds) and reduce thawing and heaving during winter months. Types of mulch include, grass clippings, pine bark, cedar, tree, coconut husks, reflective ,recycled rubber, compost, leaf, colored stones and sand..
· Remember: initially some mulch will leach nutrients that can slightly change your soil ph. However as your mulch decomposes your ph returns to neutral.
· Right soil -the right soil allows your plant selection to get the right nutrients. Know your pH. Is it acid, neutral or alkaline. Acid soil releases different nutrients than alkaline soils. Fertilizer is identified by NPK, nitrogen(N) for the leaves, Phosphorus(P) for the roots, Potassium (K) for the roots. Compost/Compost tea also has a ph. which is usually neutral. Containers usually have an abundant amount of plants, which can require more frequent fertilizing(depending on type, organic verses chemical).
· There are many time release fertilizers available. Liquid organic fish emulsion and seaweed are great plant boosters and provide your plants with a variety of nutrients. In general the lighter the soil mix the more fertilizer washes through and the more frequently the plants need fertilizer. Remember to read and keep your plant labels
· right container : man-made or natural, plastic, foam, milk containers, garbage cans, plastic newspaper bags, resin, concrete, hypertoufa, (Trough garden pots are made of cement ,peat moss and perlite with fiber mesh) iron, terra-cotta, ceramic, wood, baskets, oak wine barrels are some of the usual choices. Be creative. Protecting the inside of a wood container or a metal container, you may want to line it with plastic. To sterilize and kill disease in your containers, add a half cup of bleach to 2 gallons of water, then rinse out with the hose. PAGE 3
· Avoid containers with narrow openings. Cheap plastic pots deteriorate in UV light. Wooden containers are susceptible to rot. Redwood and cedar are somewhat rot resistant and do not have to be painted or treated. Avoid wood treated with creosote, penta, arsenic or other toxic compounds.
· Terra-cotta pots must be forged at high temperatures in order to be left outside and should be kept off the ground. Water retention should be considered as they also dry out quickly. High fired glazed ceramic pots are good choices for overwintering, but require many drainage holes.
· Double walled plastic containers, can help prevent freezing and thawing of plant roots in your container, and can be left outside with no worries.
· Resin containers: Versatile, man made, lightweight, reproductions of classic garden pots.
· What size container, (between 15 and 120 quarts) bigger is better, because it allows for a larger root system, it retains more water resulting in less frequent watering and accommodates a larger plant variety.
· Any container is a good container that supports its plants requirements (water, air, nutrients).
· Water: containers need more water as they tend to dry out faster than landscaped garden plants. Drip irrigation is an easy solution, and allows each plant to get the right amount of water at the right time, with the use of a timer. Hydro additives can help the container retain water. Longer watering encourages deep roots, and reduces water evaporation. Also avoid using overhead, sprinkler irrigation because it can promote the development and spread of leaf, flower, and fruit infections. Trickle irrigation is best because it puts water directly in the root zone, does not wet the plants above ground, nor encourage soil splashing. Overhead watering systems can be adjusted to accommodate various watering patterns to decrease the likelihood of plant/foliage water bourn diseases.
· Move plants at the right time –acclimate (harden off, last frost) your house plants before adding them to your outside containers or window boxes. Remember to consider your plants light requirements, when placing your plants outside.
· Insects good or bad! Reduce the need for pesticides. Create a living ecosystem (describes the relationship among living things and their surroundings) inside your container, starting with compost. Choose a disease resistant healthy bug free specimen from a reputable nursery. Consider Proven Winners and Gold Medal plants from Cornell’s web site. PAGE 4
Treating diseases, if, despite all your preventive measures, you plants still come under attack, there are many natural methods that gardeners can rely on. First identify the plant species, scout for signs of pest damage or pests. Identify the variety of pest as beneficial or undesirable. signs of powdery mildew appear as white cotton bowl on the foliage of roses, lupines, flocks, and azaleas. Spray with soapy water or solution of baking soda or water, if possible space plantings further apart. For rust- identified by orange brown spores beneath the foliage-remove infected leaves. And, if the condition persists, destroy the plant and replace any nearby plantings. Refer to CCE handouts.
Common pests that threaten container plantings include slugs, Aphids, Japanese beetles, snails and earwigs, scout your containers daily. To treat slugs, sprinkle “slugo” as directed, use a small dish of beer, or remove slugs by hand. Wear gloves, slime sticks like glue. If aphids affect the tips or buds of the plants, spray the affected area with blasts of soapy water, then hose-rinse the entire plant. If you suspect Japanese beetles, wait until early morning when the temperature is low and the Beatles are sluggish. Then, shake the pest out of the plants into a pail of soapy water. For earwigs, lay an empty toilet paper roll among the plants, the bugs will crawl into the roll during the night and you can dispose of it in the morning.
Refer to Cornell fact sheet: using growing degree days for Insect pest
Management.
Pot inserts allow you to change your containers more frequently, without getting your hands dirty! Smaller container plants, inside larger containers allow a container for all seasons, July 4th, Halloween, Thanksgiving etc.
Remember: when potting new plants the roots are usually shorter than the foliage. Don't be afraid to prune the upper plant, to maintain the appearance of the original planting. Ying and Yang!
Container design configurations: use a container inside another container to create a floating water feature.
Multi tiered pots create focal point.
Four season container, add your indoor plants to your outside containers for multi season change.
PAGE 5
Proven winners: Go to (CCE website for list) and use these plants in your containers, throughout your garden on patios, stairways, window boxes and entryways.Sunny container . Use a 20 inch pot include yellow and white daisies(African osteospermum)) and the dwarf cosmos(cosmos bipinnatus) drought tolerant, as well as hardy zinnias(angustifolia)heat/humidity tolerant –disease resistant and easy to maintain. All do well in full sun.Grassee container : start with an 18 inch pot use feesey's form ribbon grass, a (phalaris arundinacea) this ground cover is aggressive, variegated green and white perennial grass fills the pot growing up to 3 feet high in the container. The white leaves turn slightly pink in the spring and produces airy white flowers. Tolerates dry, moist, all wet soil.Part shade container: start with a 12 inch pot with bright blue Salvia (mealy-cup sage), Lavender blue Australian fan flowers,(scaevola aemula) and trailing ivy pink geraniums(pelargonium peltatum). Full to partial sunlight. Magic glow Container 18 inch pot. This collection of plants almost glows in the dark. We are using white and silver leaf and flower variations. Start with white fuchsia (sleigh bells) Sun to partial shade 24 to 48 inches high. Next white browallia (Browallia speciosa) part sun, (overfeeding produces leaves, but not flowers). Artemisia(silver brocade), sun to partial shade blooms from July to September low growing. Sweet alyssum(lobularia maritime) sun/ part shade fragrant. Next licorice plant(white licorice) Sun to part shade, moist but not wet soil and last white begonia, partial to deep shade continuous summer blooms.Shade Container : shade loving plants start with new guinea impatiens Sun to partial shade. Long flowering season do not overwater, turns leaves yellow. Chartreuse sweet potato vine(margarita) partial shade, lemon lime colored. Last, ebony sweet potato vine(Blackie) partial shade grown for decorative foliage and vigorous growth, foliage turns Bronze in cooler temperatures. Ornamentation - Most people choose to plant a window box for the beauty and color it adds to their home. Some popular flowers used in window boxes include petunias, geraniums, impatiens, begonias, pansies and daisies. Expect them to bloom all summer long.Fragrant Window box: In a 3' x 10" window box start with golden sage grows up to 2 feet high, produces long purple and white flowers that are highly aromatic. Next French vanilla Marigold (targets erecta “French Vanilla) grows up to 2 feet spikes. Next miniature yellow snapdragon(antirrhinum pulverulentum) likes full to partial sun, grows about 11 inches and blooms from spring to frost. Has a pleasant scent. Add Nasturtium(tropaeolum) full to partial sun, has edible flowers peppery aroma with 2to3-foot creepers. Lastly, verbena likes full sun white, red, lilac or purple flowers, and is drought tolerant. PAGE 6
Over-wintering: most potted perennials will need to be transplanted into the ground if they are to survive the winter of freezing temperatures. The freezing and thawing of container soil is a killer for roots, whereas the even freezing of the garden bed under a layer of mulch or snow will put your perennials to sleep until next spring. They can then be revived and replanted in a new container collection. There are exceptions: very large containers reduce freezing and thawing. I have sedum, roses, cone flower, hydrangea piniculata trees, dwarf pine, and conifers that have been growing in large containers for several years. Get to know your plants. Read your plant labels.
Dwarf plant varieties are available for large containers. Crape myrtle, pines, spirea and fruit trees are very hardy and are good container specimens.
Bulbs: purple muscari looks great in a single planting because the blossoms are so delicate. And the color is so striking. Try 50 of them in a 12 inch diameter containing. Fill halfway with potting soil mix plant 25 bulbs cover them in layer another 25 bulbs with soil on top. They will take two to three weeks to boom.
Bulbs for other seasons, include Daffodils, Peruvian lily, Alstromeria cultivars; Dahlia cultivars, Iris cultivars; Persian butter cup, Cannas, cowl lily. Fall : belladonna lily, Amaryllis belladonna, autumn crocus,(colchicum autumnale) autumn snowflake.Shrubs :wigelia, abelias, gardenias, St. Johns wort .Trees: cut leaf Japanese maples, dwarf conifersAnnuals: Long blooming: Alyssum, Begonia, Browallia (violet blue flowers) coleus, Geraniums, Impatiens, lantana, Lobelia, Marigolds, Periwinkle, Nasturtiums, Pansies, Petunias, Salvia, Sanvitalia, (creeping zinnia), Snapdragons, Thunbergia(tropical vine) and Zinnias to name a few.Perennials: Selecting Perennials for Containers, Perennials like annuals, come in all different shapes, sizes and colors. A good rule of thumb is to select plant combinations that make the most of contrast and harmony. Flowers with similar colors and different shapes. Contrasting shapes and complementary, soft tones and strong shapes. Pick contrasting leaf patterns, variations in height and texture and plants with harmonious hues. Containers look best when they're planted with the flowers and foliage close together, without space between the separate plants. Aim to plant your container so that it looks attractive directly after planting, so that you get the most out of it through the season. Other containers, like trough(hypertoufa)s or window boxes, look attractive when you can see the spaces between the plants. PAGE 7
Perennials: Some perennials that look good in containers include:Campanulas, Asters, Astilbe, Chrysanthemums, Delphiniums, Coreopsis, clematis, Phlox, Salvia, Hostas, Primroses, Scabiosa and Miscanthus. For more information visit http://www.cce.cornell.edu/.Roses: hybrid roses are good choices they are disease resistant, cold hardy and many varieties.Herbs/Vegetables:Squash: table lace, table star,autum delight, celebration and harlequin are hybrids that are pest resistant. Tips for squash include wrapping aluminum around the stems to deter borers. also reflective mulch that reflects light up into the underside of the plant seems to deter aphids. aluminum foil on the ground also seems to deter aphides. Vegetables: your container will need at least five hours of direct sunlight each day and many plants will need more. Generally leafy vegetables such as cabbage and lettuce can tolerate the most shade, while root crops such as beets and carrots will need more sun. Fruiting vegetables such as tomatoes and cucumbers need the most sun. The amount of sunlight needed by flowers varies depending on the varieties grown. Try planting quick-growing small herbs and leaf lettuces around you larger fruiting vegetables. Read your labels and check flower guides for specificPotatoes: Take a large plastic garbage can. Punch some drainage holes in it. Add about a half foot of good potting soil, then add about 5 or so pieces of seed potatoes. As they sprout, let them reach about 6 inches or so in height, then add more soil until only the upper fourth of growth is exposed. Keep this up all season long, fertilize and water, etc. At the end of the season as the tops die back, dump the trash can, in the garden, of course, and pick your spuds!
Vegetables for Specific Sized Containers Beans, Snap 5 gal. Window box, Bush types such as blue lake contender and Tavera Beans, Lima 5 gal. Window box White Dixie Wonder Beets 5 gal. Window box Early Wonder, Detroit Dark Red 1 plant/5 gal. potBroccoli 3 plants/15 gal. tub Super Blend, Italian Green Sprouting Brussels Sprouts 1 plant/5 gal. pot 2 plants/15 gal. tub Evesham variety Cabbage 1 plant/5 gal. pot 3 plants/15 gal. tub Discovery Chinese Cabbage 1 plant/5 gal. pot 3 plants/15 gal. tub Michihli Carrot5 gal. Window box at least 12" deep Little Finger ThumbelinaCucumber1 plant/gal. pot Space masterEggplant 3 gal. pot Black Beauty Rosa Bianca PAGE 8 Garlic 8-inch deep container Most Varieties Lettuce 5 gal. Window box Salad Bowl, Ruby, Grand Rapids, Oak Leaf, Butter crunch, Dark Green Boston, Little Gem, Bibb Onion 5 gal. Window box White Sweet Spanish, Yellow Sweet Spanish Pepper1 plant/2 gal. pot 5 plants/15 gal. tub Sweet Banana, Yolo Wonder, Long Red Cayenne, Bell Boy, Keystone Resistant, California Wonder, New Ace, Red Cherry, Long Red Cayenne, Jalapeno, Thai Hot Radish 5 gal. Window box Cherry Belle, Icicle, Champion, Scarlet Globe Spinach 5 gal. Window box Dark Green Bloomsdale, Melody, America, Avon Hybrid squash 2 gal. pot Scaloppini, Baby Crookneck, Creamy, Golden Nugget, Gold Rush, Zucchini (most varieties) Tomatoes Bushel baskets5 gal. pots Tiny Tim, Small Fry, Sweet 100, Patio, Burpee's Pixie, Toy Boy, Early Girl, Better Boy VFN, Pixie, Red Robin, Sugar Lump, Tumblin' Tom (hanging baskets)For more information visit http://www.cce.cornell.edu/.Vines Sweet potato vine does well in containersTubulars: dahlias, begonias,Repotting container plants that become root bound. Avoid digging into the container with a trowel as this may damage sensitive roots. Instead, if possible tip the container, then gently remove as much of the root ball as possible and replant the container or tease roots and replant to a larger container.
The above information is compiled from various websites to support Cornell Cooperative Extension Handouts. For more detailed information visit http://www.cce.cornell.edu/. Visit www.gardencoaches.org for follow-up questions and notes. Go to links to view, “Your Guide to Container Gardening” presentation.For specific questions regarding this presentation: E mail Jay or Loretta @gardencoaches.org
